After reading and studying, I decided to go about this project in many, many, many, many, many steps. I know it will take a long time, and I am okay with that. But after day one and realizing I have 38 cabinet doors/drawer fronts, I realized it was going to take a REALLY long time.
Here is the list of things we bought and are using:
Painter's tape - we are currently on roll #3.
Several plastic sheets from Home Depot. Just the cheap $3ish for a 10'x20. Wet bought 4.
Ziplocks - numbered 1-38 so that every hinge, screw, baby lock, drawer glide goes in it's numbered baggie.
80, 220, 320 & 400 grit sandpaper. I bought the regular sheets of 400 (for sanding the final coats). 320 I bought an awesome foldable/rollable sandpaper made by 3M. It's great stuff! 220 in our electric sander sized sheets. Regular sheets of the 80 so that I can sand down the bondo.
TSP powder, the bigger box. You can find this in the paint section, by the paint thinner. This is an awesome chemical that just melts of the varnish.
Rubber gloves - we bought a box of 100 from Amazon for about $8. We use these whenever we were near the TSP. We also use them when we paint.
A scrub brush - to scrub the TSP.
Bondo - to fill in the deep grain, holes, nicks. Very stinky stuff and we learned to only mix a couple tablespoons at a time because this stuff sets up in about one minute.
Purdy cub paint brush - spend the $ and get a great brush.
Tack cloth - paint section, near the drop cloths. This is a sticky, or tacky cloth that snatches up the leftover fine dust after sanding.
I tried the Wooster 4" roller with smooth rollers they have a very small nap. It says, "for smooth surfaces" on the package. I also bought the Home Depot brand foam rollers. Not really a fan of either. So I went to the trusty Sherwin Williams store, and the guy told me that most painters use a "velour" roller. So, I bought two packages and I am impressed! I really like them.
Kilz oil based interior primer (oil means more durable). I used this on the inside of my cabinets. Which happen to be pressed board with a thick faux wood contact paper. How's that for quality!? I didn't use it on the face frames of the cabinet doors themselves.
Sherwin Williams - Sherwood Pro lacquer undercoater. This is a super professional painters product. Even the guy at Sherwin Williams questioned me. He asked if I was hiring someone because this is a very professional product. I wanted to respond with, "listen bub, I am the professional!" This is the product I am using on the face frames and the cabinets themselves. The difference in an undercoater and primer is undercoater is used on a product that has already been stained/painted. It's job is to fill in the grain and cover up the blemishes. Primer is for smooth or "raw" finishes. This stuff had to be stirred really, really, really well. It is like gooey play-doh stuck at the bottom. I stirred for probably ten min. Oh, and it stinks to high heaven. Open the windows and doors for sure!
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Sherwin Williams Profinish Satin Alkyd paint - color is Alabaster. Alkyd means oil based. We had to travel a bit to get oil based paint. Explanation is in the post titled "oil based paint".
Paint thinner - duh!
Trim caulk & caulk scraper (and baby wipes for the excess caulk) - this is to caulk the seam between the moulding and the back or flat piece of the cabinet, so there isn't a gap. This step isn't necessary, but it's a nice attention to detail step.
A ventilating face mask - no passing out from the fumes.
Paint filters - I bought a package of 100 for a couple bucks from Harbor Freight.
Paint sprayer - I bought an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) paint sprayer also from Harbor Freight for $30. It gets stellar reviews online and from my Mother-in-law who has used it several times to paint many things.
I think so far, that's my list.
Now, let's get started.
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